Clues to the city’s rich history are often right beneath your feet.
When conducting my walking tours of Paris I frequently remind my fellow strollers (flâneurs) to LOOK UP, as so much of the city’s architecture, historical signage and grand vistas are missed if people have eyes fixed on the sidewalk immediately before them. That notwithstanding, there are many instances when it does pay to peruse…
View More
Paris's Art Nouveau dining rooms recall the "Beautiful Era" of 1900
In America it was called “The Gilded Age” and the “Gay Nineties”. In Britain it was the peak of the Victorian and Edwardian Age. In France, it was called La Belle Époque . . . The Beautiful Era. For a few brief decades immediately before and after the turn of the 20th Century, Europe and America…
View More
The Historic Streets of Saint-Germain - Rue Jacob
TODAY’S ARTICLE is a follow-up to my previous post which began an exploration of that most quintessential of all Left Bank districts; the Sixth Arrondissement. In this, and periodic posts to follow, we’ll take a closer look at the various neighborhoods of the 6th (there are four of them) and detail pieces of their…
View More
The neighborhoods of the Sixth Arrondissement have charms to last a lifetime
In ancient Rome, the Caesars practiced a special form of punishment on political rivals whom they did not want (or could ill-afford) to have executed, but whom they wanted to be rid of. The punishment: EXILE. The most famous recipient of this brand of imperial justice was Augustus Caesar’s own daughter, Julia. For her treacherous…
View More
Harry's Bar has been picking U.S. Presidents since 1924
Harry’s New York Bar, that iconic Parisian watering hole of American writers, actors, composers and celebrities, as well as the site of pilgrimage for countless American tourists, is also the scene of a quirky yet amazingly accurate ritual in political prognostication. American jockey and saloon owner, Tod Sloane, opened the establishment as the New York…
View More
Mixing food and History is the best way to experience both . . .
Paris rightfully claims many world-class distinctions, not the least of which is its position as one of the planet’s great culinary capitals. That claim-to-fame is enhanced by the historic backdrop of marvelously preserved buildings, churches, cobbled streets and sidewalk terraces which serve as the set upon which Paris’s dining scene is played out. Paris confronts…
View More
In a postage stamp-size dining room, and even smaller kitchen, Sebastian Heloin serves near perfection
In my never-to-be-realized quest to identify and sample the 100 best dining spots in Paris, I spend hours reading the reviews from a variety of opinion pages, web sites, books and magazines. Trip Adviser, Zagat, Travel & Leisure, the list goes on . . . and on. Notes and cross references are stored helter skelter…
View More
With the Ritz and Crillon temporarily out of commission, a new jewel sparkles in the diadem of Parisian Palace hotels
One of my many pleasures, when in Paris, is to temporarily forget my sparkling-wine budget and take a sip from the champagne lifestyle of the city’s marvelous palaces of lodging and temples of haute cuisine. A Martini at the Georges V, a chef’s menu lunch at La Tour D’Argent, a cocktail at the Ritz’s Hemingway…
View More
From the ruins of Les Halles to Le Rubis' Happy Hour, why it's great to be alone and on foot in Paris
As a recently retired Francophile with a passion for all things Parisian, I found myself in urgent need of a way to convince my wife that I was doing more each day than watching old Seinfeld reruns. Gentlemen of my age group and post-career situation know that it is absolutely vital for a spouse, especially…
View More
A museum piece floating in the Seine and an unbeatable location to experience Paris at its best.
Paris expert, Thirza Vallois, in her acclaimed guide book, Around and About Paris, summed up the second island in the Seine as “the ultimate jewel” and “Paris at its best”. It’s difficult to disagree with her. With the river as its moat and encased in fortress like stone quays, this 17th–century aristocratic village remains much…
View More